Pipers Brook Vineyard Tasmania Gewurztraminer 2008
$27.50; 13.5% alcohol; screw cap; 84 points
Musk sticks, ripe raspberry fruit gels, maraschino cherries, blood orange, ly-chee, freesia – lotsa purdy party favours in this bouquet. But it’s all very well-formed and polite – there’s no sign of misbehaviour. No seductive wickedness. The palate shows some of the errant tropicals and spice I need in gewurz, but it all feels a bit Sunday School Teacher to me. Neat dry finish, but even that’s a bit hymnbookish in its structure and papery tannin. Cucumber sandwiches: white vienna bread, unsalted butter, crusts cut off. 18 NOV 08.