ONE OF THE NEWEST AND TRUEST FIRST FAMILIES OF AUSTRALIAN WINE, AS IN FRONTRUNNERS, AND PERHAPS THE MOST INNOVATIVE IN MANY DECADES ... CAROLANN, ALEXI, ADAM AND JULIAN CASTAGNA ON THEIR VERANDA AT BEECHWORTH photo PHILIP WHITE
NEW!
Castagna Sparkling
Genesis Beechworth Syrah 2008
$75; 13.5% alcohol;
Diam cork; 95+++ points
The tiny bubbles and absolutely minimal liqueuring have
softened some of the 08’s angular bits, but put a little more sharp into
others. The aniseed, blueberry and
juniper are all here chugging, the jujubes have taken on a St Elmo’s Fire halo,
and the nightshade and tea leaves seem to have been replaced by a thin layer of
coal dust, but overall, the similarity with the wine with 100% fewer cavities
is reassuring. This is very dry for red
fizz. It works that same old teetering
see-saw of soothing and excitement, and keeps the sensories alert and entertained. As the thunderstorm breeze whizzed across the
table, each sniff or sip drew out another contrast or complement, just as the
vineyard changes aroma constantly with wind direction and airborne water. Blueberries at the bottom. Tasted November 2011
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